Note: The plastic version actually has lots of metal in it!
What does the Metal
version have that the Plastic does not?:
CF frames instead of Aluminum
Metal Tail box instead of plastic.
CF and metal tail servo holder instead of simple plastic
Metal tail blade grips instead of plastic
Metal front boom holder instead of plastic.
CF fins instead of plastic.
Lightweight paddles instead of solid plastic
Metal washout arms instead of plastic
CF boom braces instead of aluminum.
Potential Motors: 500 size, 5mm shaft diameter
Turnigy Typhoon : 1800kV (Lots of power, really measures to an
1850-1900Kv motor so for 6S use 11T for 2700-3000RPM. Do not use 10T or it
will strip maingears, Note that 11T pinions are however hard to find so look at ordering the 11T before you order the Typhoon.) Stock 13T pinion works with 5S on the Typoon, there are some people running 5S batteries to sucess on the Typhoon 500H Turnigy 500H Typhoon at Hobby City 3mm mounting screws 6mm in length or 8mm with washers (make sure screws don't hit internal wires) Hobby King 500H (1600Kv)
Xheli 500 motor : Xheli 500 size 1620Kv motor (500 size motor at Xheli) Use 13T pinion from the EXI 500 kit with 6S 3000 3mm mounting screws 6-10mm in length
Align 500L : 1600kV (Well known in the Trex 500, use 13T pinion) 500L motor at Amain
HB3650 from Dx: 1700kV (Performs well, use 12T or 13T pinion) HB3650 from Dealextreme 3mm mounting screws 6-10mm in length
Potential Cyclic Servos:
Servos opening in the frame and tail are 36mm x 17mm
Hitec HS5245MG Mini digital (Metal Gear, digital, good power and decent centering.)
Hitec HS225MG Mini Analog (Metal Gear, good overall bang for buck)
Hitec HS225BB Mini Analog (Nylon Gear, BB, inexpensive power for the $)
Hitec HS82MG (Sport flying, inexpensive known reliability)
Align DS510 (Mini digital)
Futaba 9650 mini Digital (Nylon gear but Metal gear upgrade available)
Tower Pro MG930 Digital Metal Gear (Hobby City Inexpensive, sport performance) Fitec 9250 Nylon gear (awaiting feedback)
Potential Tail servos:
Futaba 9257 (not for 6V)
Align DS520 (Mini Digital)
Tower Pro MG930 Digital Metal Gear (not a fast servo for the tail but cheap) Fitec 9257 Fast Analog (very inexpensive)
Potential External BEC (I do suggest you get At least 4A Switching
and one you can configure 5V or 6V output). 3A may be enough but you
should review your servo's stall current specs.
Build notes:
Download the Trex 500 manual for some helpful information.
Use the Trex linkage lenths for the head to start with. Target from 2500-3000RPM for head speed. 3000RPM for more responsiveness and 2500 for sport flying.
Initially I recommend mechanically setting up for +/- 12 collective and
+/-8 cyclic pitch but use your swash AFR or swash mixing to get +/- 10
collective pitch and +/- 6 cyclic pitch to start with.
IMPORTANT!
Re-apply Blue loctite to ALL metal to metal screws. you can wait till
you have it all build up but do it BEFORE you maiden your helicopter. I
found the blade grips and tail grips were loctited so you may need to
heat them to remove and inspect. If it's hard to remove, don't force
it, heat it or you can snap the smaller 2mm screws. Tail box and head
are 2 placed you don't want to forget to make sure has loctite. Fast
spinning and high vibration will turn those screws out faster than you
think.
It is a good idea to have some spare 2mm and 2.5mm bolts and nylon
locknuts on hand for ANY helicopter build. If you don't find you need
them during the build it helps to have them later. There will be some
spare screws in the kit but not the longer ones. A spare screw package
from the EXI 450 spare parts list may be helpful if you add that to
your order. Some sizes I recommend are:
2mm x 6mm
2.5mm x 6mm
2mm x 16mm (You may need this for servos like the deeper Hitecs)
2mm nuts & locknuts
2.5mm nuts & locknuts
Folks, to help serve others, once you get yours flying, please post your:
Blades, Motor, Pinion, Battery, ESC, BEC, BEC battery (if seperate from
flight pack), Cyclic servo, Tail servo, gyro and any mods you needed to
do.